Luxury Lexicon 46 terms

Footwear terms

Terms for shoe construction, fit and style that arise in footwear and client-facing roles.

All groups

A

Aglet
The small plastic or metal tip that keeps a shoelace from fraying and helps it pass through an eyelet.
Arch support
A shaped part of an insole or footbed that supports the arch of the foot.

B

Blake-stitched
A shoe construction in which a row of stitching joins the insole, upper and outsole directly.
Block heel
A broad shoe heel with a substantial surface in contact with the ground.
Blucher
A lace-up shoe with separate lacing tabs attached to the vamp.
Brogue
A shoe decorated with small perforations and often serrated edges along its panels.

C

Cap toe
A shoe with a distinct cap section over the toe, usually formed by an additional piece of upper material.
Cemented
A shoe construction in which adhesive bonds the outsole to the upper.
Chelsea boot
An ankle boot with elastic side panels and usually a pull tab, designed to slip on without laces.
Chukka boot
An ankle-height boot, usually with two or three pairs of lace eyelets.

D

Derby
A lace-up shoe with an open lacing system: the panels carrying the eyelets sit over the vamp.
Desert boot
A type of ankle-height chukka boot traditionally made with a suede upper and a crepe-rubber sole.

E

Espadrille
A shoe with a sole made from, or edged with, braided rope such as jute, often with a canvas upper.
Eyelet
A small hole through which a lace or cord passes, often reinforced with a metal or stitched ring.

G

Goodyear-welted
A shoe construction in which a welt joins the upper to the insole assembly and is separately stitched to the outsole.
Gusset
An inserted piece of material that adds room, shape or flexibility to a garment or shoe.

H

Heel
The part of a shoe beneath the back of the foot, often raised above the level of the forefoot.
Heel cap
The replaceable protective piece on the bottom of a shoe’s heel, also called a top lift or heel tip.
Heel counter
A reinforcing piece around the back of a shoe that helps the heel area hold its shape.

I

Insole
The inner sole of a shoe, beneath the foot.

K

Kitten heel
A low, slender shoe heel.

L

Last
A shaped form used to build a shoe and establish its shape and fit.
Loafer
A slip-on shoe without laces or another fastening, usually with a low heel.

M

Midsole
The layer between a shoe’s insole and outsole, often used for cushioning or support.
Monk strap
A shoe fastened by a strap and one or more buckles instead of laces.
Mule
A backless shoe that leaves the heel exposed.

O

Outsole
The bottom layer of a shoe’s sole that comes into contact with the ground.
Oxford
A lace-up shoe with closed lacing, where the eyelet panels are attached beneath the vamp.

P

Patent leather
Leather finished with a hard, high-gloss coating built up in layers over its surface.
Patina
A surface appearance that develops through use, aging or deliberate treatment, particularly on leather or metal.
Penny loafer
A loafer with a strap across the vamp containing a small shaped opening.
Plain toe
A shoe whose toe has no separate cap or decorative perforations.
Pull tab
A small loop or tab that helps the wearer pull on a shoe or boot.

Q

Quarter
The rear or side section of a shoe’s upper, extending around the heel.

S

Saddle shoe
A lace-up shoe with a contrasting, saddle-shaped panel across the middle of its upper.
Shank
A reinforcing piece beneath the arch of a shoe, between the insole and outsole.
Spectator shoe
A spectator shoe uses contrasting colours or materials across sections of the upper, often at the toe and heel.
Storm welt
A welt with a raised edge against the upper that helps limit water entering the joint between the upper and sole.
Suede
Leather finished on the flesh side, the inner face of the skin, and sanded to a soft, velvety nap.

T

Toe box
The part of a shoe that encloses the toes.
Tongue
The flap beneath a shoe’s laces or other fastening, covering the top of the foot.

U

Unlined
Made without a separate inner lining, either throughout a shoe or in a specified part of it.

V

Vamp
The front section of a shoe’s upper that covers the top of the foot.

W

Welt
A strip of material used in some shoe constructions to connect the upper and insole assembly to the outsole.
Wholecut
A shoe whose upper is cut principally from one piece of leather.
Wingtip
A shoe with a toe cap whose pointed centre and curved sides form a wing-like or W-shaped outline.

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