Luxury Lexicon 55 terms

Production terms

The vocabulary of product development, workshop production and quality control.

All groups

A

After-sales service
Support after a purchase, such as care advice, repairs, alterations and warranty handling.
Anglage
Bevelling and polishing the edges of watch movement components to create smooth, reflective borders.
Appliqué
Decoration made by attaching pieces of fabric to a larger fabric surface.
Atelier
French for a workshop or studio, including a workroom where garments, accessories or other objects are made.

B

Bench jeweller
A bench jeweller fabricates, repairs or alters pieces of jewellery at a workbench.
Bespoke
Made for an individual customer; in tailoring, cut from a pattern created specifically for that person.
Black polishing
Polishing a metal surface so flat and smooth that it appears mirror-bright or black depending on the viewing angle.
Blake-stitched
A shoe construction in which a row of stitching joins the insole, upper and outsole directly.
BOM
Bill of materials: the list of components and quantities needed to make a product.

C

CAD
Computer-aided design: using software to create or modify technical drawings and models.
Casing-up
Installing and securing the assembled watch movement, dial and hands inside the case.
Cemented
A shoe construction in which adhesive bonds the outsole to the upper.
Côtes de Genève
A decorative finish of regular bands applied with an abrasive tool to watch movement surfaces, often plates and bridges.
Couture
French for sewing or dressmaking; in fashion, often used for specially made, carefully constructed clothing.

D

Dart
A stitched fold that takes in fabric to shape a garment around the body.

E

Engraving
Cutting a design or lettering into metal or another hard material, by hand with a graver or by machine or laser.

G

Goldsmith
A maker who forms, solders, assembles and repairs jewellery in gold and other precious metals at the bench.
Goodyear-welted
A shoe construction in which a welt joins the upper to the insole assembly and is separately stitched to the outsole.
Guilloché
A decorative pattern of repeated engraved lines, traditionally cut into metal with a hand-operated engine-turning machine.
Gusset
An inserted piece of material that adds room, shape or flexibility to a garment or shoe.

H

Haute couture
A controlled French designation for fashion houses meeting specific requirements for made-to-order clothing and its presentation.
Hem
The finished edge of a garment or fabric, often made by folding and securing the edge.

J

Jacquard
A weaving system that controls individual warp threads to create patterns, and a name for fabrics made with it.

L

Last
A shaped form used to build a shoe and establish its shape and fit.
Lead time
The time between starting or ordering an activity and receiving its result, such as placing an order and receiving stock.
Lean
An approach to improving work by reducing waste and focusing on value for the customer.
Lost-wax casting
Casting metal in a mould formed around a wax model, which is burned out to leave a cavity for the metal.

M

Made-to-measure
Making a garment by adjusting an existing pattern to a customer’s measurements.
Métiers d’art
French for skilled artistic crafts, including disciplines such as embroidery, engraving and decorative metalwork.
Moiré
A rippled, water-like surface effect on fabric, commonly produced by finishing a ribbed cloth.
Movement assembly
Fitting together and lubricating a watch’s internal components so its mechanism can run and be tested.

P

Pattern
A template used to cut the separate pieces of a garment.
Perlage
A decorative finish made by overlapping small circular marks on a watch component with a rotating abrasive tool.
PLM
Product lifecycle management: coordinating a product’s information and development from its initial concept onward.
Print
A design applied to a textile’s surface, rather than formed by weaving the pattern into the cloth.

Q

Quality assurance
Planned processes intended to give confidence that products or services will meet agreed requirements.
Quality control
Checks and tests used to determine whether products or work meet specified requirements.

R

Range planning
Planning the mix of products in a collection or range, including their roles, quantities and price points.
Regulation
Adjusting a mechanical watch’s running rate to reduce how much time it gains or loses.
Root cause analysis
Investigating why a problem occurred so action can address its underlying cause.

S

Sampling
Making or assessing trial versions of a product before production; in beauty, sampling can instead mean providing trial quantities to customers.
Savoir-faire
Practical knowledge and skill developed through experience, especially in making or doing something.
Seamstress
A person whose job is sewing garments: assembling them, altering them to fit and repairing them, by hand or by machine.
Silversmith
A maker of vessels, tableware, objects and jewellery in silver, shaped from sheet or cast, then soldered and finished.
SOP
Standard operating procedure: documented steps for carrying out a recurring task consistently.
Stone setting
Securing gemstones in a metal mount so that each is held firmly and shows to best effect.
Storm welt
A welt with a raised edge against the upper that helps limit water entering the joint between the upper and sole.
Suede
Leather finished on the flesh side, the inner face of the skin, and sanded to a soft, velvety nap.

T

Tailor
A craftsperson who cuts, makes, alters and fits garments, chiefly structured ones such as jackets, coats and trousers.
Tailoring
Making, shaping and fitting garments, including suits and coats, as well as altering finished clothing.
Tech pack
A set of specifications and instructions used to communicate how a garment or product should be made.
Tie-dye
A resist-dyeing technique in which fabric is tied, folded or bound so some areas resist the dye.

W

Watchmaker
A specialist who assembles, adjusts, services or repairs watches and their movements.
Welt
A strip of material used in some shoe constructions to connect the upper and insole assembly to the outsole.
Wholecut
A shoe whose upper is cut principally from one piece of leather.

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