A lightweight fabric with a subtle crepe texture and a soft drape, often made from silk or polyester.
Crêpe de Chine is a fine plain-weave crepe, usually of silk and also made from artificial fibres. Its warp is ordinary; its weft is crepe yarn, overtwisted, laid in alternating pairs of opposite twist, two to the right and two to the left. That weft gives the cloth a fine crepe effect. It is used for dresses and blouses.
A newcomer often treats crepe as a single fabric. The Getty vocabulary lists four ways to give cloth its crinkle: hard-twisted yarn, printing with caustic soda, weaving at varied tensions or embossing; CottonWorks adds the crepe weave, which interlaces warp and weft in a random order. Crêpe de Chine takes its texture from twisted yarn in the weft alone. Georgette twists both warp and weft and is semi-transparent, and charmeuse is a satin weave with a lustrous face.
In job listings
Designers and fabric developers use this name more than recruiters do. Sales staff may also meet it on a label, where it should not be assumed to be silk, since it may be made from polyester. Search local jobs for “fabric”.
References
- Getty Research Institute · crêpe de Chine weave and alternating weft twist
- Smithsonian National Museum of American History · Cheney Brothers silk crêpe de Chine
- SILKNOW Silk Heritage Thesaurus: crêpe de Chine
- Getty AAT: crepe (textile)
- Getty AAT: crêpe georgette
- CottonWorks: crepe weave
- American Heritage Dictionary: crêpe de Chine
- Getty AAT: charmeuse